Monday, September 5, 2016

Desolation Wilderness Day 3

A lot has happened in the last ten years. 
Sleep was hard to come by last night.  I fell asleep okay, but thereafter a toss and turn fest ensued. I'm coming to learn my shoulder really begins to ache by day 3 of sleeping on a spartan pad.  

But I spun that restlessness into a good thing by forcing myself out of my cozy sleeping bag and down to the lake shore at 5am to set up a time lapse for Scott the Pot.  It's just an iPhone, so of course I'm stuck with iPhone quality work, but it's a fun way to pass the time, and I'll defend my little side project until it ceases to keep me entertained.

Goodbye Doris

Scott will miss you dearly

I prodded Maddie awake around 6:30am, and despite temps well into the low 30s, we set about breaking camp with numb and throbbing fingers.  Putting on socks was a particular strain of nightmare I would be happy not to repeat for a while.  The cold slowed us down a bit, but after snapping a few pictures and choking down a few bites of food, we made our way back around the lake to meet the trail.  

I haven't really discussed food much beyond the highlights. For the curious gourmets out there, our mainstays are probably disappointing. Yet, they never fail to deliver on palatability. And that's all we can ask for at this point. The unsung heroes of our diet (in no particular order, and belonging to either Maddie, myself, or both of us): Swedish Fish, apple sauce packets for babies (guess whose snack this is), cookies and cream Quest Bars, Exo cricket flour bars, Bobo's coconut oat bars, chocolate chip cookie Lara bars, blueberry fig bars, Justin's nut butter packets, tortillas, The New Primal beef jerky, Krave jerky, and rice crackers. The only question mark in the bunch, really, was the particular variety of tortillas we brought. Branded as "ancient grains" and with more protein than the others, I bought into the healthy marketing, only to bite into what I can only describe as a sour tortilla.  I challenge you to pluck a more unappetizing word than "sour" out of the dictionary to describe your ideal tortilla.  Yes, Maddie and I agreed. It was sour. BUT...while the tortilla by itself was revolting, paired with either sweet or savory flavor combinations, we were shocked to discover how delicious and successful they were at tying a snack together.  Not sure if the manufacturer's intent was to create something so divisive and mysterious, but alas, here we are.

Lake Doris post-sunrise

It was only a short climb to Rockbound Pass, and we kept all of our warm layers on until we were well beyond the pass at Maud Lake.  We passed an angry man screaming at his cowering canine companion and Maddie and I hustled past with broken hearts.  It was not a pretty sight, and I could hear the machinations working in Maddie's head to somehow lure the pup and rescue it from its seemingly abusive owner.

Rockbound Pass

Lagging behind to take selfies

And one without a hat because Maddie tells me to and I do what she says

The entire morning was relatively uneventful. The wind had disappeared from the previous afternoon, and we were left with clear skies and stark, peaceful silence the rest of our descent.  I plugged in to a few podcasts here and there, we passed a few day hikers, and it wasn't long before I caught my first glimpse of windshields glinting through the trees.  

Speed demon

DONE!

Once back at the car, we stripped off our dirty clothes and into our swimwear, ready to plunge into the nearest body of water. It was a short drive down the road to Wrights Lake, where we were met with throngs of families populating the shoreline.  Kayaks, SUPs, screaming babies, distinctly creepy men, and so many adorable dogs.  Maddie was braver than me, opting to submerge her entire body in the icy water for the sake of cleanliness. Not me.  I waded in to my knees, and wiped off my shins and feet, opting to bask in my filth for the remainder of our 5 hour slog through Labor Day traffic.  She's a keeper, and I know that. Not sure if she could say the same about me at that point.

Because double the hats means double the protection, right?

Wrights Lake + Maddie

And now we're home. Home where horns blare and responsibility slaps us across the face the moment we walk through the door. But it's refreshing, this dichotomy. Sometimes it feels like we're living double lives, and in fact, I am incredibly grateful to be living where I am, doing what I do, and still seek out adventure on a moment's notice.  And to share that with someone like Maddie is enough to bring me to tears, as it did this weekend.

It's getting to be a bit sappy at the end here, but it's hard not to be so effusive right now.  So many memories. The highest of highs and lowest of lows. And every one of them has been with her by my side.  My sore thumbs and fatigue-addled brain could never conjure the words to describe the overflowing emotions that have been stirring all weekend.  All I know is that I'm happy. And that's all I can ask for. 


Desolation Wilderness Day 2

Sunday September 4, 2016

I woke up at 7am to what must have been the hundredth gust of wind that whipped our tent last night.  The last hour before dawn was brutally cold, my thermometer indicating 36 degrees or so.  Not abysmal by any stretch, but not what either of us expected, per se.  

I let my fiancĂ© (!!!!!!!!!!) sleep in, while I mustered the courage to confront the cold and mobilize. After doing so, I planted myself in one of the few sunny spots and ate a frigid breakfast while the sun slowly began to thaw my joints.  Soon enough, sometime between 8 and 9, Maddie was up and about, preparing the day ahead of us. 

Toes thawing

To Lake Ahola please

I have read countless blogs about Lake Aloha, glowing trip reports marveling at the beauty of this wild place.  As if Doris lake weren't pretty enough, we were both excited to get moving.  The wind continued and neither of us stripped off our warm layers until we'd reached China Flat in the valley 900 feet down and 1.5 miles later.  From there it was a gentle grade toward the climb to Mosquito pass 3 miles away.  With wide open sky and a romantic buzz in the fresh mountain air, we moved briskly.

Descending

China Flat


4 miles in and the climbing begins

Clyde Lake in the morning

"Almost there," he said for the tenth time...

Today, Maddie was living the dream by hiking ten miles through the Sierra without a pack. I was happy bear burden, as she couldn't have looked happier.  We passed some gorgeous meadows and enticing lakes before the pass, but once up and over it became immediately obvious what made this place so incredibly popular.  The expanse of little islands over the massive body of water was impressive, calling to mind Thousand Island Lakes over in the Ansel Adams Wilderness.  

Last push to Mosquito Pass

Insert jaw-dropped emoji here

Savoring every second

We momentarily had service to call parents and give them the good news!

Following our intuition, we ditched the trail that flanked the eastern side and headed west along its northern bank, scrambling down rock faces and stopping to enjoy the views along the way.  It truly is an enchanting place.  We were able to get just enough service to cal our parents to share the good news before hopping down the last few rocks to the shore.

There we settled on a nice little patch of sand, where I set up my hammock and prepared our lunch. We had gone a little extravagant on this trip, bringing a fresh apple and two avocados! I proceeded to whip up som Michelin caliber avocado-pesto spread-tortilla chip burritos, and we both agreed it was one of the most satisfying trail meals we've had.  After gorging ourselves, Maddie lounged in her camp chair while I hopped in my hammock and dozed.  The wind was just a little too much for comfortable swimming, so we opted to enjoy the views from a distance today, promising to return to this precious lake.

Wanna feel pampered buy yourself a hammock

Lounge life

I did NOT want to leave this place

Time flew and before I knew it, Maddie was prodding me to pack up our things and hit the trail again.  Interspersed throughout the day was talk of marriage, a topic that has been kept at arm's length despite our mutual acknowledgement of its inevitability.  And the flood gates are open!  This is just the tip of the iceberg so don't go asking us for details about anything yet, but it felt good to talk about marriage in such concrete terms. Like everything with Maddie, it just feels right.

Clyde Lake in the afternoon

The walk down and back to China Flat was faster, as we stopped only a couple times for a photo or two.  But once we got there, we were both fairly tuckered out, with a steep climb up to Doris Lake ahead of us. Determined we hit the switchbacks with gusto, slowing down to a trudge as we created the last remaining slope.  I made straight for camp, hustling to get into my warm clothes. Although the wind has almost completely disappeared tonight, the temperature was dropping rapidly. We both agreed to bypass dinner in favor of a more convenient solution of bars, chips, crackers, jerky and candy.  We eat like royalty out here, folks.


Humoring me for a photo op

Replenished and ready for bed, I convinced Maddie to take a few more photos by the lake with me before retiring.  After tucking her in, I went down to the lake with the chair and sat, basking in silence.  That silence is nothing and everything to me, all at once. It's calming, yet thrilling.  Quiet but deafening.  This is where I feel at home. And at peace.  And tonight, fingers numb with cold and heart glowing with warmth, I go to bed once again the happiest man on the planet. 

Desolation Wilderness Day 1

Saturday September 3, 2016

My alarm has become progressively more cruel throughout this week, beginning with 7:30am and ending this morning with 3:45am.  But that's the way it is, and nothing was standing in the way of this being a good day.  It's a bit cheesy, but I've long since bought into the idea that a positive mental attitude begets positivity.

So for those who do not know, Maddie and I have been together for a while now--getting close to 10 years.  After months of indecision and planning, I had decided this would be the weekend I propose.  I knew I wanted it to happen while backpacking somewhere remote and beautiful, but I wanted it to feel spontaneous. So as not to arouse suspicion, I played this trip off like any other. I deferred to her on where to go, and didn't even bother booking a permit in advance.  We simply woke up early and drove to the Pacific Ranger District in hopes of securing a walk-up permit for somewhere within the Desolation Wilderness, southwest of Lake Tahoe.  We have heard incredible things about this region, and I thought it was as perfect an opportunity as any before backpacking season comes to a close.

I had rented a "Ring Cam" for the occasion, as a means of documenting the special moment.  It's essentially a GoPro inside a ring box. Pretty cool. The problem was, I accidentally left it on while it charged all night, so I woke in a bit of a panic and tried get as much juice in there as possible before we left. I even convinced Maddie to drive under the pretense that I was too tired, while I surreptitiously plugged it into our portable charger.  It all worked out though, though Maddie was admittedly mildly perplexed by my request to ride shotgun because I'm always gung-ho about driving.  

With an egg breakfast under my belt, me made our way to the ranger station, stopping at the desolate Peet's in Davis for some lattes. We arrived at the station a mere 10 minutes past 8, and were greeted with a discouraging line out the door. Yes, it was Labor Day, but surely there would be something left for us...  

Thirtieth in line, we chatted up an exuberant ranger who made us much more at ease knowing that any permit in this area of wilderness would be a treat. He was a glass completely full kinda guy--someone who would insist the glass is full even when that was empirically just not the case. But his effervescence rubbed off on us, so much so that by the time we reached the front of the line only to learn that our top 12 choices were full, we more overjoyed to settle for an alternate entry point, one of the last available in the park I imagine.  At the risk of this lack of planning seeming un-Graham-like, I will repeat that this was the only way I thought I would be able to catch her by surprise.

Downing one last bottle of Soylent, we were all set to head in through Wrights Lake and spend night one at Lake Doris.  From there we would use Sunday to day hike to Lake Aloha and back. We both are pleased with the itinerary, even if the terrain was one looming question mark to us.

Her "get the camera out of my face" face

Onward!

From Wrights Lake trailhead, it was obviously a different experience somewhat from that of Yosemite. It was a shorter drive, for one, but there were also multiple dogs at the trailhead. DOGS!  I had almost forgotten this area is canine-friendly, and little did I know today would be an exhibition for what I hope to have one day, a pooch to accompany us on the trail.

So many lakes to choose from...

And upward!

Trying to keep my shit-eating grin from Maddie was a tough play

Some amazing weather and terrain today

It was a fairly steady climb to Rockbound Pass, and no sooner than 20 minutes into the hike, I found myself slapping my face to dislodge the bee that laid waste to my neck.  I haven't been stung since I was a little boy, and I forgot how much those suckers sting! Maddie removed the stinger, I took some Benedryll, applied some ointment, and we were on our way once again.  The weather was almost perfect, and I wasn't about to let a bee ruin my day. After all, given the bee-pocalypse and recent devastation in the south, I felt kinda bad the little guy perished when all was said and done.

Immediately post-sting

I can only imagine the first thought of an oncoming hiker who catches you photographing your cook pot...

We passed several gorgeous lakes along the way, some just visible through the thick forest, others dotting the trail for us to drool next to as we passed.  Save for the wind that picked up over the course of the afternoon, we really couldn't have asked for a better day of hiking.

My subject, finally cooperating for a pose


Because this is how weird we are

Toward steep and rocky Rockbound Pass

Not too many people on the trail today--such a delight

Finally at the top!

Once at the top of the pass, we came within view of Lake Doris, and I knew almost immediately this was it. This was the place I would ask Maddie to marry me.  The lake sits just below the pass, some 5 minutes walk down, with various clusters of trees strewn around the perimeter that undoubtedly harbored some lovely campsites.

Lake Doris in all her glory

We trekked off trail, around the lake to the opposite side, where we settled on a grassy patch behind a stand of trees roughly 75 yards from shore.  It was only 3pm, so we set about making an early dinner down by the lake while we basked in the sun's rays.  It was perfect.  And it was about to become more perfect.

The added luxury of tortilla chips and fresh avocado to this chili was BOMB

As per usual, Maddie indulged in a postprandial nap, splayed out on a large smooth rock by the water's edge.  Meanwhile, pretending to wander off in search of photos with Scott the Pot, I set about positioning the cameras.

For better or worse, it's a long-running joke of ours that we poke fun of parents who film and document moments with a gigantic iPad. And it was this fact alone that drove me to sacrifice the weight penalty of lugging one 7 miles deep into the wilderness.  I could also justify its presence this weekend with the fact that it did actually have some valuable footage on there now.  But I'll always remember Maddie's deep, appreciative laugh at the site of it, burrowed in the brush a stone's throw away.  I spent a solid 20-30 minutes positioning the iPad and my iPhone/tripod setup along the beach adjacent to our campsite.  I would argue it's the most stunning spot on the lake, and probably one of the most picturesque places I've ever found myself.

Once I saw Maddie stirring, it was go time.  I hit record, walked over, and tried my absolute best to play it cool. The dork that I am, I asked if she could come use her new camera app to take a photo of the pot.  Slightly confused and taken aback, she agreed to follow me over to the bank.  She was saying something about the app, but I can't remember because my heart was pounding so loud I could barely focus on slyly turning on the ring cam.  I was on autopilot. I'd rehearsed this in my head a hundred thousand times, the earliest of which dating back no sooner than 5 years ago, and it had all evaporated in a second. 

I turned around, knelt down, and opened it up, and I couldn't take my eyes off of her smiling face, the sun radiating warmth behind her head.  I uttered some butchered approximation of the thoughtful short paragraph I had prepared, and I asked those words I had said in my head so many times.  And in return, I heard the word I had imagined hearing so many times.  



Recreating a favorite memory of ours at Lake Virginia on the JMT

Cold and beyond excited

Lake Doris from the hammock at sunset

She busted a gut when she saw the iPad. It was amazing. Perfect. Everything I had ever wanted and more. We posed for pictures and selfies, and we took some more video as the sun slowly began to set. I heard a loud "whoop!" of congratulations from a camper across the lake, and I blushed, having forgotten other people were in the vicinity, few though they may be.  Bellies and hearts full, we cozied up in our sleeping bags and talked for an hour or so until her eyelids became too heavy. And now I'm following suit. I'm following her into sleep, and into what I expect to be some joyous dreams. I asked the love of my life to marry me today, and I think that's kinda cool.